VISIT TO ARANMULA

The Aranmula Boat Race takes place at Aranmula, near a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and Arjuna. The two day Aranmula Boat Race is more a water fiesta than a competition, conducted during Onam.

We visted the place in June and though the boat race is still months away the boats are getting ready for action. We met local villagers to know more about this famous boat festival in the Pathanamthitta district in Kerela.

An old man did tell us the story behind the festival as he was taking a dip in the river Pamba. . The event is are-enacting of the legend involving a devout Brahmin who made a votive offering of feeding one pilgrim a day. One day Sree Krishna himself appeared to him and the overjoyed Brahmin vowed to offer 51 measures of rice and all the provision for the thiruvona sadya (the sumptuous Onam feast) at the Aranmula Parthasarathy*Temple. Once,the thiruvonachilavu thoni (the boat carrying the offerings) was intercepted by rivals from another village, but the Brahmin's own villagers came to the rescue on snake boats. From then on the offering was carried by a fleet of palliyodam - about 48 of them representing the nearby backwater villages. (A palliyodam is a large, luxurious snake boat used by gods and royalty.)

These days, only 26 snake boats participate in the event which is marked by a colorful water carnival - an imposing effigy of Sree Krishna is taken out in procession on the lake with children dressed as nymphs and princesses.

On the second day, the snake boats or "chundan vallams" are decorated with silken parasol, carrying helmsmen, oarsmen and singers assemble near the temple early in the morning and then move away in pairs, creating a magnificent pageant. The oarsmen sing traditional boat songs and wear white dhotis and turbans. The golden lace at the head of the boat, the flag and the ornamental umbrella at the center make it a show of pageantry too.

Each snake boat belongs to a village along the banks of the river Pampa. Every year the boats are oiled mainly with fish oil, coconut shell, and carbon, mixed with eggs to keep the wood strong and the boat slippery in the water. The village carpenter carries out annual repairs and people take pride in their boat, which is named after and represents their village.

The boat race proper is held in the afternoon.

Thousands of people gather on the banks of the river Pampa to watch the snake boat races.

Our visit in the off season period to the place was just majestic. The scenic beauty surrounding the river cannot be comprehended in words. The stands were empty and though creepers grew on them, villagers are confident -come Onam the place will be alive, clean and worth sitting and enjoying the boat race.

Our guide helped us see some snake boats parked in the huge mansion homes belonging to villagers. We managed to get a ride on the small boat from one end of Pamba river to another and back and though the boat ride was short, it helped us enjoy the visit and we forgot all our worries of driving back home.